I had heard of Charlottesville’s culinary scene before I came to the University. I firmly believe that what makes a town, city or village civilized is not its population or income rate, but its food. Any town with many restaurants that feature a variety of cuisines is a town that has reached a certain level of civilization, according to my standards. After eating at the historic Boar’s Head Inn, the eclectic Zocalo and the traditional Downtown Grille, I was already convinced about Charlottesville’s status as a culinary hub.
Photo by Bennett Sorbo
Even I was surprised, though, after eating at l’étoile — French for “star”. I have been re-educated about the adaptability of classic French cuisine.
L’étoile boasts all the ingredients and dishes that one may find in a Michelin-star restaurant in Paris, only with a rustic Virginian twist. The restaurant is set in a small house on Main Street, first opened in 1993 after being purchased by the Gresge family. The inside of the restaurant is quite spacious, with a comfortable familiarity about it. The smell of aged wood, autumn scents and that hint of vanilla are all in place at l’étoile. The walls are lined with naturalist paintings by local artists, and local is a trend on which l’étoile clearly places much emphasis. All the ingredients used are local, something that I find adds to the spirit of a restaurant. The food feels cohesive with the environment it is in, rather than out of place.
Though not necessary, reservations are encouraged at l’étoile as it can get crowded during the weekends. As I entered with my companion, we were greeted at the door and led to a small two-person table, lit by a candle under a beautiful painting of trees in the autumn time.
The menu is small at l’étoile, with five to six appetizers, entrees and desserts each. I decided to go with the “Charcuterie” and my companion with the “Autumn Salad” for our appetizers. Service was quick, and before we knew it, our plates were before us. My dish was comprised of country paté, a foie gras flan, duck confit and beef summer sausage, each placed on different ends of the plate with arugula, walnuts, berries and pickles scattered around them. Although the presentation struck me as what one would expect in a more rustic environment, not in an upper-class restaurant, the flavors were certainly sophisticated. Though complicated, this dish was a treat to eat. I have always been a fan of trying different things in small doses and the proportions of the ingredients were perfect. I was perfectly satisfied with what I had. The paté was buttery and thick, which went well with the pickled green beans on the plate. The sausage and confit were both meaty and delicate with their flavors, and the foie gras flan was so creamy, one could spread it on bread like jam.
My friend’s autumn salad was a mixture of arugula, walnuts, fennel, apple and goat cheese with a honey rosemary vinaigrette. The salad was delicious; the harmony of the flavors was perfect and exactly what one would want from an appetizer. It was crisp, it was uncomplicated and it was tasty.
After being fully satisfied with our appetizers, we waited eagerly for our entrees. I had the duck breast, leeks, brussels sprouts, turnips and shiitake mushrooms, while my friend ordered the scallops with French lentils, red onion, butternut squash, acorn squash, carrot and parsnip. The duck was seasoned with only salt and pepper and was served medium rare. The vegetables were sautéed in butter and served under the duck to bathe in its juices. I was pleasantly surprised, as I was expecting the duck would be sweet, but this seemed to fit the local setting with a more rural taste.
The scallops, however, were the real surprise. Seared and served over the sautéed vegetables, there was a great contrast between the vegetables and the creamy texture of the scallops.
For dessert, we shared the house special, the “S’more.” A play on regular s’mores, l’étoile’s version is made with homemade marshmallows, a chocolate pudding and graham crackers. The pudding is more of a chocolate mousse with a texture reminiscent of ice cream. It was, simply, mind-blowing, and that is not a term I use often when referring to food.
Although l’étoile may not fit regularly into a student’s budget, it is certainly worth the extra expense for a special occasion. All in all, I would rank l’étoile as one of the top restaurants I’ve been to when it comes to price, ingredients, ambiance and most importantly, flavor. Chef Mark Gresge has been successful in matching Charlottesville with rural France and creating a fusion not easily found anywhere else.
L’étoile is open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Wednesday through Saturday, and brunch on Sunday. It is located at 817 West Main Street; (434) 979-7957.