To all who enjoy the popular food item, pizza feels normal. Pizza is consistent. Pizza can be easily replicated across various restaurants and cultures. However, some types of pizza are wildly controversial. Hawaiian pizza, green pizza — and yes, squared pizza — are rather hit-or-miss.
Enter Emmett Street’s Emmy Squared Pizza with their squared pizza. Emmy Squared is a Brooklyn-based national chain restaurant that serves Detroit-style pizza and recently expanded into Charlottesville. Emmy Squared features a menu that is equal part pizza and equal part modern American fare, with loads of other handheld options.
I attended their Grand Opening Saturday to sample a variety of their menu items. At the event, Emmy Squared’s team presented a slew of samples from their menu, including pizza, burgers, salads and sandwiches. The pizza was variable — some of it failed to meet expectations, while some of it exceeded them. However, Emmy Squared’s burgers, sandwiches and salads were undoubtedly delicious.
Unfortunately, I highly doubt they will have another grand opening like that of Saturday — with servers bringing out a symphony of samples for attendees to try. But, fortunately, I am here to present my conclusions on the aforementioned pizza, burgers, salads and sandwiches.
The first sample brought out was the Cheesy Garlic Sticks, which rested on a mild tomato red sauce with a delectable garnish of their nut-free pesto. The spongy appetizer was oozing with butter and garlic and was a textbook example of elite-tier garlic bread.
Next, the flagship sampler arrived — the legions of different flavors of square pizza. Now, I must admit, I did not enter the restaurant with an open mind about their inferior pizza shape. However, I was proven wrong. The square shape was one of this dish’s few good moves, as every slice was consistently crispy. Unfortunately, the pizza itself was average at best. Though the texture was perfect, there was far too little sauce.
My first bite revealed the steak and olive pizza to be bland — and to make matters worse, the steak was downright crunchy like a rye chip. Likewise, the pepperoni pizza was also disappointingly overcooked. Both kinds were dry, sporting far too little sauce, with their only saving grace being a soft, pillowy crust and focaccia-based dough.
The one pizza that stood out was the MVP, which featured three sauces — Emmy Squared’s world-class parsley pesto, vodka and red. Unlike the MVP’s counterparts, the sesame-adorned crust was layered with more sauce than cheese. Surprisingly, this slice was pure pizza bliss and, following its namesake, quickly inspired a comeback of sorts.
Next came the Sriracha Chicken Crunchers. The fried chicken was crisp on the outside but warm and chewy on the inside. This dish warmed my mouth with a hint of sriracha spice and a garnish of peanuts and refreshing cilantro.
I also sampled the Brussels Sprouts Salad, which featured dried cherries, a miso dressing, pickled red onions and crunchy cashews. I have seldom enjoyed brussels sprouts throughout my life, but I truthfully loved this salad. It was refreshing and all the flavors worked well together — even the brussels sprouts.
Finally, I tried Le Big Matt, the restaurant’s signature hamburger. Having garnered previous awards as the top burger in both New York City and Nashville, the half-pound beef blend of chuck, brisket and short rib was cooked to a perfect medium rare. It was topped with lettuce, cheese, pickles and Emmy Squared’s signature Sammy Sauce, which is somewhat of a chipotle mayonnaise. I found Le Big Matt to be among the best burgers in Charlottesville — if not the very best.
As a pizza connoisseur, I have mediocre feelings about Emmy Squared’s complete pizza catalog. That being said, if you factor in the shining stars of the menu — the non-pizza items — Emmy Squared is quite impressive. It is a quality choice for an evening out, a weekend brunch or a location to watch a televised sporting event. Even though some pizzas were subpar, there are enough alternatives on the menu to facilitate a sufficient dining experience.