Despite being situated in the no-man's land between the Corner and the Downtown Mall, Starr Hill Restaurant and Brewery, located at 709 West Main St., has quickly made a name for itself. Since appearing on the scene Sept. 6, 1998, the restaurant has taken little over a year to achieve a tasteful menu, lively atmosphere and enormous popularity.
When entering the dimly lit establishment, the rich oak bar immediately grabs one's attention. Starr Hill creates the feel of a dressed-up warehouse, as the elegant atmosphere is intermixed with details of the original structure. The exposed brick wall on one side of the restaurant contrasts the rest of the dark blue walls, and the exposed ductwork remains its original silver color.
"There was no hiding the duct work," said John Spagnolo, founder and owner of Starr Hill, on why he decided to accentuate the pipes.
A former owner of the Biltmore Grill, Spagnolo decided to move to San Francisco to gain experience and further exposure in the restaurant world. Upon his return, he was not planning to open a brewery, but when Blue Ridge Brewery went up for sale, an interesting opportunity arose. The clincher came when a friend, Marc Thompson, who was brewing beer in Colorado at the time, said he was looking for investors to open a new brewery/pub.
Spagnolo's goal was to provide high quality dining at a reasonable price. He said he envisioned "a nice atmosphere without being stuffy."
With entrees ranging from $8 to $16, the restaurant remains affordable without sacrificing quality. Chef Jim Waive uses only the freshest ingredients, relying on predominantly organic options.
Starr Hill offers a wide variety of contemporary American cuisine, with something to please everyone. But one should not get attached to a particular dish - the menu changes seasonally.
The delectable appetizers include mussels braised in pale ale or fried risotto filled with parmesan and mozzarella cheeses. Spagnolo asserts that the calamari and rock shrimp appetizers are particularly popular, but the deep-fried calamari tastes greasy and is a bit on the heavy side.
The veggie cakes served with duck sauce, a new addition to the menu, make for an innovative and delicious starter. The cakes are sautéed and breaded like crab cakes, but are filled with an assortment of peppers, carrots, spring onions and cabbage. The heavenly taste of traditional duck sauce, complemented with fresh spices such as ginger peel, makes this appetizer a must-try.
As diners progress to the main course, they are presented with a plethora of tempting choices. The menu ranges from rich, robust options like the lamb shank braised in tomatoes, olives and Dark Star stout and accompanied by Yukon Gold mashed potatoes, to lighter fare such as the salmon with rock shrimp cakes and salsa.
Other light choices include grilled mahi-mahi with cilantro salsa and avocado, served with steamed vegetables and cilantro rice. The fish is moist and flaky, and once again the sauce makes the entrée. There are also several vegetarian options, such as linguini with sautéed spring vegetables and a white wine garlic sauce.
The majority of the desserts include seasonal fruits to appeal to the senses, such as the caramel apple crumble or the mixed berry tart. But there are also more refined options like the bourbon crème brulée.
It is important not to forget the brewery aspect of the already impressive restaurant. Though Starr Hill only serves dinner until 10:30, and 11:00 on the weekends, the bar remains open until 2:00. All beers are hand-crafted by Thompson, who typically keeps five beers on tap: an amber ale, a golden ale, a pale ale, a stout and the brewmaster's choice, which now is hemp ale.
The restaurant is already a hit, busy with customers even on Tuesday nights.
"Older customers will sometimes complain that it is too noisy, but I think that it just contributes to the liveliness," Spagnolo said.
Despite the crowds, the restaurant offers tasty food without the pressure of an exorbitant bill.
Spagnolo said business is going "better than ever expected," and anyone who dines at Starr Hill will understand why.
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