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Maharaja takes its time spicing up Eastern fare

The very heart of what it means to be a patriotic elementary school child during this season may be donning clumsily made bonnets and colorful, feathered headdresses to recreate and celebrate the historical culinary, non-restaurant-based spectacle between the Pilgrims and Indians.

Although little has changed about this yearly ritual of yams, turkeys, pumpkin pies, homemade costumes and fairytale depictions of the Mayflower and its weary and, more importantly, hungry passengers, what has changed are the key actors in this drama de cuisine.

With the advent of the era of political correctness, what had traditionally been a feast between Pilgrims and Indians became one between Pilgrims and Native Americans.

Thus, we are left to wonder, what would this historical meal have been like had it truly been a feast between Pilgrims and Indians? The answer lies at Maharaja, an "authentic Thanksgiving restaurant" located on 29 North at Seminole Square, where pilgrims of all sorts can enjoy a wide variety of authentic Indian dishes.

Open since 1991, Maharaja is an unpretentious restaurant that offers its patrons an array of quality Indian food, but falls short in the service of that food. And while the food is prepared quite well, it is somewhat pricey for the portions given, averaging between $13 and $14 per entré. Maharaja does provide culinary adventures of all levels, though, allowing each dish to be prepared either in mild, medium, hot or Indian hot fashion.

For starters, Maharaja offers the traditional dal soup (made of lentils) for $1.90, as well as a wide range of appetizers. Such tasty concoctions include the dahi wada, comprised of racquetball-size, grainy lentil dumplings immersed in a mildly sweetened yogurt sauce, garnished with cilantro, cumin powder and served chilled for $3.90.

The menu also features several types of pakoras (fritters) to stir the palate, as well as the aloo tikki, which melds potatoes, cashews and Indian spices with deep-fried breadcrumb patties for $3.90. To wash down such unique dishes, Maharaja offers the traditional Indian lassi, a yogurt shake with a touch of rosewater and Indian herbal chai tea.

Although all entrees come with basmati rice, to truly experience Indian food at its best, the trusty diner should endeavor to try one or several of the homemade Indian breads. They're tasty as well as useful in absorbing sauces and countering extreme spiciness.

Maharaja offers an excellent traditional naan (white wheat bread cooked in the tandoor oven) for $1.90 and an delicious sweet naan, which is almost dessert-like in its exquisite blend of fluffy bread, warm raisins, flaky coconut and almost-caramelized sugar. The cheese naan, stuffed with layers of cheddar, is also quite good; it's the Indian equivalent of a grilled cheese sandwich without all the grease. Other options include the carnivore-friendly keema naan, stuffed with mildly-spiced minced meat (for $3.20) and the aloo paratha, which blended mildly spiced potatoes with green peas, though it also seemed to include excess oils and an acrid aftertaste.

Maharaja has an extensive entré menu that features items ranging from those heavy on meat to those solely of a green variety.

Of particular distinction are the authentic tandoor (famed for their unique flavor achieved from being cooked in a tandoor oven) and biryani dishes. The tandoor murgh - chicken marinated in special herbs, spices and yogurt and served over cooked green peppers and onions - costs $9.90 for a half and $14.90 for a whole and is appealing in its dramatic orange color and delicately spicy flavor. Unfortunately, though, the portion is somewhat paltry for the price and does not seem to be the equivalent of the stated "half chicken," unless, of course, the chicken was a particularly diminutive, runt-like bird.

The biryani, which ranges from $11.90 to $13.90 and can be ordered vegetarian or farm-animal based, blends basmati rice with onion, tomato, bell pepper, spices, nuts and lamb, chicken or shrimp. Curry dishes are also plentiful at Maharaja, from the tangy chicken curry ($11.90) to the lamb curry (12.90), which is cooked with masala, garlic, ginger, black pepper and fried onion.

Also quite good is the gosht saagwala, which for $12.90 is a lamb dish cooked with spices, spinach and cream. Few entrees, though, delve below $12, which is unusual for ethnic eateries as well as strip mall restaurants, so be sure to bring enough cash to get a true taste of all that Indian food has to offer.

Sadly, while the food is distinctive and, for the most part, well-prepared, it is not brought to the table in good time. In fact, the service was so poor we almost lost our appetite while waiting. And while this might not have bothered pilgrims of yore, for modern pilgrims it can present a problem for busy schedules and general dining happiness.

So, on this Thanksgiving Break, relish your cranberries and get stuffed on turkey, but think about embarking on a culinary adventure of your own and try out the unique wonders of true Indian food. Just make sure that, should you choose Maharaja for your pilgrimage, you have the time.

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