The first time I set foot in Japan, I was five years old. My parents and I had a brief layover at the Tokyo airport. I don't remember much about being there, and the only proof I have of the visit is a stationery set my parents bought for me. It's now stowed in a drawer somewhere, and I've mostly forgotten about it.
I never really thought about Japan again until I started studying Japanese at the University 12 years later. And I never thought I would eventually return to Japan for an extended period of three months.
I studied the language for two years, but many people study languages and never study abroad. I'm not entirely sure why I decided to go abroad, but a major reason had something to do with escaping the monotony of my daily life. I had lived in Virginia my entire life, and I felt the need to challenge my lifestyle and be adventurous.
The thought of going and living somewhere different thrilled me. I, of course, also wanted to have an actual immersion in the Japanese culture and language. I was taking many Japan-related courses and, embarrassingly enough, I assumed that three months in the country would perfect my meager language skills.
I ended up attending a Michigan program in the city of Hikone, Shiga Prefecture, Japan. Hikone is a small city located on the shore of Lake Biwa -- the largest lake in Japan. It is about 45 minutes from Kyoto and approximately 90 minutes from Nagoya by train. My flight arrived in Nagoya, and one of the program's coordinators eagerly awaited my group's arrival. I was surprised, yet relieved, because I thought I had to take a train to my final destination.
As we drove through Nagoya, I still remember thinking how unreal the whole experience was. I could not believe that I was finally on the other side of the world. I stared out the window feeling both nervous and excited in my new environment. The many hotels were lit in bright neon lights. Japanese schoolgirls wore cute uniforms with loosely fitting socks. The cars were tiny. I was in awe.
For an entire month, I lived at the Michigan Center and took an anthropology class in English. I did a little traveling, visited a few Buddhist temples and did some shopping. I learned how to use the train system.I purely observed and admired everything around me, just as I had done when I first arrived in the country.
This first month, however, was not really an ideal immersion experience. I met very few Japanese, and I hung out mostly with other students in the program. We never traveled alone.
All this would change the following month when I moved out of the dorm and in with a host family.
I remember waiting nervously for my host family to arrive. I felt excitement, but mostly anxiety. Around midday, my host father arrived. For the first time in my life, I felt shy. I smiled, and I could barely introduce myself. I felt embarrassed and rude. The drive back to his house seemed to take forever. Listening to my host father speak overwhelmed me.
I thought about how set I had been on having this new experience, and now I wondered if I would be able to handle it. I could not believe that I had agreed to live with a family that spoke no English for two months. We finally arrived at the Ichijo's house in Notogawa, four stops away from Hikone by local train and one by the express train.
My host father brought my belongings to my new room, which was much cozier than my dorm room. After I unpacked, I went downstairs and sat with my host father, who then played the ukulele and the harmonica. He also had this scary looking ventriloquist dummy that he showed me. I thought this was his weird way of trying to entertain me. I later discovered that his part-time job was as comedian and magician.
After my host father's show, my host mother rushed in and started speaking to me. Again, I was lost in incomprehension. I think she was amused by my lack of Japanese speaking abilities. She left for work, and my host father told me to go to my room and study. I think he felt frustrated that I could not communicate well with him.
I jumped at the chance to escape the uncomfortable situation. I probably should have studied my Japanese, but I just sat on my bed and stared at the ceiling. I could not figure out how to close the window blinds, so the sun's rays came directly down on me, and I started to sweat. There was no air conditioning. The humidity was uncomfortable. After a few hours of pondering my situation, someone called me down for dinner.
Before traveling to Japan, I was a picky eater. I did not eat seafood. I do not think I ate much of anything except chicken. For dinner, my host mother prepared fish, rice, salad and "natto" -- no chicken. I didn't want to be rude, so I ate everything except the natto -- a dish of fermented soybeans that smells terrible. Many foreigners do not like natto, but most Japanese love it. I did not want to try it, and my host family noticed. They encouraged me by calling it a "challenji." I eventually ate it.
One might wonder how all this is a part of the best experience of my life. I was doubtful in the first couple weeks that I lived with my host family, but things improved with time. In the following weeks, I felt more comfortable with them. They took me sightseeing and out to restaurants. I learned to love the food. I played volleyball and entered a canoe race with my host mother. She even dressed me in her kimono once. I started to feel like I was part of the family.
Everyday on the way to school, I would walk past people working in stores and in rice fields. I also rode a bike to and from the train station, and I would ride a train with all the Japanese children. I saw what an ordinary day in Japan entailed.
Each day was a challenge, but in the end, even though I was not fluent, I felt more confident and independent. I was astonished by how much my feelings for Japan had changed. I felt like the time I had spent there was too short, and I did not want to leave. After teary goodbyes to my family and new friends, I left to go back to America. It was difficult.
During my flight, I thought about my airport experience in Japan when I was five. I thought about all the travelers who do only the touristy sightseeing. I thought about how much I would have missed had I not lived with the Ichijo family, and I realized the difference between a stopover at an airport and an actual experience.