The Cavalier Daily
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Hamiltons' combines solid menu, classic décor for memorable evening Downtown

They say: "Good taste is easy to recognize." If this is true, Hamiltons' at First and Main on the Downtown Mall is impossible to miss. From food to atmosphere to service, Hamiltons' provides a truly enjoyable dining experience.

The menu describes the food as "contemporary American cuisine."

"It draws from a lot of classic cuisine from various parts of the world in a new American style," explained Daniel Page, the general manager of Hamiltons' for the past two and a half years.

The menu offers about 10 entrees, ranging from a price of $14.95 for the vegetarian "Blue Plate Special" to $22.95 for grilled black angus tenderloin. All entrees come with a house salad.

The prices are higher than many students' budgets will allow, but the dining experience at Hamiltons' justifies every penny. For special occasions or a splurge, Hamiltons' makes a top choice.

The menu changes every two or three weeks, to take advantage of what is fresh and in season.

"The chef always makes it a point to put together a menu that's interesting," Page said.

Appetizers include the daily soup selection - which is always vegetarian - for $3.95, to a confit of duck cannelloni for $7.95.

The spinach artichoke bisque is served hot and garnished with a piece of toasted, buttered bread in the center. The soup is well-balanced and well-flavored, with neither too much nor too little of any spice. The portion size is perfect - it does not fill the diner enough to hinder the enjoyment of the main entrée, nor does it leave diners hungrily awaiting the main dish.

The confit of duck cannelloni with a shitake-sherry demiglace, nappa cabbage and duck bardons has a crepe-like wrapping around pieces of duck. The duck itself is tender and juicy. The demiglace is a little sweet and slightly tangy, well-suited to the duck cannelloni.

A house salad of mixed greens dressed with a light vinaigrette comes next. Too often, dressing is heavy and overpowers the salad itself. But this vinaigrette is pleasantly salty and tart and applied lightly enough that it does not drown the flavors of spinach, dandelion and other greens.

The vegetarian "Blue Plate Special" is as good as hoped for. Its contents vary daily, according to the chef's imagination. The dish sometimes includes vegetable lasagna, caramelized vidalia onion, sun-dried tomato and asparagus tart, fresh mozzarella, tomato and caper salad and a bean and sweet pepper salad.

The plates are filled with visually-appealing food, garnished with sprigs of chives and other herbs.

The lasagna includes eggplant, zucchini and artichoke, tastily cooked until it is soft but not soggy. The tart is flaky and everything a good pastry should be.

The grilled black angus tenderloin with a caramelized shallot-port sauce, served with whipped potatoes and haricots vert is, according to Jenny McKnee, a server at Hamiltons' since August, one of the most popular dishes.

Even people who do not normally like steak might find it hard to resist the tender and juicy dish. The flavorful sauce matches the meat well. The whipped potatoes that come with the dish are lightly seasoned with garlic. The potatoes taste evenly cooked and have a smooth texture.

Dessert prices range from $4.95 to $5.95. The menu includes crème brûlée, strawberry shortcake and a dish called Chocolate Many Ways, whose contents, invariably chocolate in some form, vary according to the chef's inspiration.

The atmosphere of Hamiltons' leaves little to be desired. From the elegant hardwood floors to the high ceiling, the restaurant quietly proclaims good taste. The walls are painted in different colors, all harmoniously done, and one wall is plastered and painted to resemble rough terra cotta.

The restaurant has large tables and cozy booths to suit any size party. The booths are comfortable and do not feel crowded. A two-color blue glass candleholder sits on each table and sconces hang above tables.

Varied types of music play in the background, loud enough to enjoy and quiet enough not to disturb conversation. The music ranges from Latin rhythms to jazz to solo guitar.

Although the restaurant is only four years old, Hamiltons' has already become one of the best restaurants in Charlottesville.

"We do consider ourselves to be a fine-dining restaurant," Page said. "But with a personal touch."

And all in good taste, of course.

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