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The best thing I ever ate

How one meal can inspire a life of epicureanism

We all have that special bite that stands out in our memory. Whether you were four or 23, some meals are so good you can almost still taste them. This happened for me when I was six years old, sparking a lifelong obsession with food in the process.

My family and I went to the Chef Jimmy Sneed’s acclaimed Richmond restaurant The Frog and The Redneck. At the time, I didn’t realize this chef was the real deal. His restaurant was recognized in its first year by Esquire Magazine as one of the top restaurants in America, and Julia Childs invited him to be on her television show. None of that mattered then, though. When I saw the menu, I was starstruck.

Pan-seared buffalo hangar steak served rare with a wild mushroom sauce and horseradish paste. I had never seen buffalo on a menu before. The entrée was an adventure on a plate, and I was ready to take the journey.

When the plate arrived at the table, it looked as incredible as it was about to taste. The steak was cut beautifully and lined the side of the plate with unparalleled elegance. The meat was succulent and cooked to perfection. The horseradish paste and wild mushroom sauce were the perfect compliment. I was enamored.

Normally, as a little kid, I sucked my food down like a Dyson vacuum. Not this time. I remember vividly enjoying each bite hoping the meal would never end. I reluctantly shared pieces with my family so they could enjoy. The power of an incredible meal is unparalleled. The buffalo hangar steak brought my family together as we bonded and related over this divine dish.

Toward the end of the meal, I said to the waitress facetiously, “Send my compliments to the chef.” To my surprise, in as little as five minutes chef Jimmy Sneed came to the table and thanked us for dining with him. He was proud we enjoyed his food so much, and I will never forget his humble gesture of coming to our table.

Seventeen years later, Jimmy Sneed has moved on. The Frog and The Redneck closed, and my ability to taste that perfectly cooked buffalo hangar steak is gone. I drove down to Richmond a year ago to try his newest restaurant – it has since closed – named Blow Toad. The menu was equally as creative and inspiring as The Frog and The Redneck, including tempura fried blowfish and swinging steak (bull testicle) pizza – both were phenomenal. Although I don’t know what Jimmy Sneed’s next project is, I can only pray it is in the state of Virginia so I can go – not only to enjoy his incredible food, but to thank him for that inspirational meal I ate 17 years ago.

Tyler’s column runs biweekly Thursdays. He can be reached at t.gurney@cavalierdaily.com.

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