The Cavalier Daily
Serving the University Community Since 1890

Fall into the gap: Jarman's that is

Right next door to Crozet Pizza and nestled in a shopping center in the shadow of the Blue Ridge is a delightful restaurant called Jarman's Gap. Decorated in earth tones and hardwood, Jarman's Gap has been open for less than two years and has remained a little-known treasure. Its location 20 minutes away makes the scenery and the drive a nice evening escape from Charlottesville.

There are some real treats among the appetizers. The Heirloom Tomato Salad ($6) is made with organic heirloom tomatoes, the old breeds that you find at farmer's markets but not at the grocery store. The tomatoes were the only un-fried green tomatoes we had ever seen, but they were surprisingly delicious. Slices of fresh mozzarella cheese are served on the equal-sized tomato slices, and the salty cheese plays perfectly off of the tomatoes' late-season freshness. The basil atop the salad is grown right behind the store, and the accompanying side salad is crisp and delicately dressed.

One starter straight from the garden is the Sautéed Broccoli Rabe ($5), which mysteriously includes no broccoli at all. Instead, the main vegetable is white hall chard, a beet lacking a swollen root, grown for its long stems and edible leaves. Served warm on a platter with garlic, lemon, parmesan, premature cherry tomatoes and peppers, the slightly bitter tinge of the chard blends perfectly with the dish's other flavors. This appetizer is very oily, but quite delicious.

The appetizer we most regretted not trying was the intriguingly named Lobster and Mr. Stripy Tomato Risotto ($8).

Although it only contains one pasta dish and no other vegetarian alternatives, the eclectic menu does have several strong seafood and beef options.

The Organic Chicken Breast ($16) is reminiscent of chicken cordon bleu - it is stuffed with delicious Virginia ham and pungent Gruyere cheese.

The chicken is baked to a golden crisp and then sprinkled with parmesan. The dish is tasty but the flavors are almost overwhelmingly strong. If you are not a fan of sharp cheeses, you probably are better off with a somewhat milder entree. The mashed potatoes which accompany the chicken have an appealing chunky texture and are served with a red-eye gravy - an excellent complement, though unpleasantly lukewarm.

In addition to the standard menu, Jarman's Gap offers a variety of nightly specials. Mark Turner, the chef and co-owner, has several culinary ethnic specialties and his affinity for Thai flavors shines through in several entrees.

The whole roasted red snapper ($17) augments the kitchen's seafood offerings. The snapper is covered with a tamarind glaze and then served alongside a sticky rice timbale. The fish is obviously fresh and very good, but is a selection for true seafood lovers.

A relatively strong-flavored fish, red snapper has a piquant taste, almost like lobster or crab. The sweet tamarind is also very strong and has a syrupy texture. Just as the dish's taste is extremely bold, so is its appearance. Those who order fish from Jarman's Gap should be aware that some dishes are served complete with tail, fin, bones and head. Luckily, the chef replaces the snapper's eye with a mushroom, but its hard to shake the fear that your dinner is about to swim away.

For dessert, the 14-layer raspberry cake is too tempting to turn down. Could they really fit 14 layers into one slice of cake? It sounded impossible, but we were wrong. The raspberries are obviously fresh, and the delicately slim slice of cake is beautiful.

The apple cake comes in a much more generous portion than the dainty raspberry dessert, and is a more traditional dessert.

A thick pastry, topped with caramel, this cake is delightfully moist and combines perfectly with the complementary scoop of vanilla ice cream to melt in the diner's mouth.

Many of the baked desserts come from a Crozet woman who bakes for several local restaurants.

The many small touches at Jarman's Gap really make the meal and experience special. There is a quietly attentive adult wait staff, and the hot bread and olive oil brought out immediately to the table sets the stage for a true dining experience. Votive candles and mini lamps on each table provide muted light, and the sunlight filtered in through sheer colored tapestries over the windows adds a nice touch.

Even the dining accessories are distinctive. Lilliputian salt and pepper shakers are on each table, as well as a small pitcher of liquid sugar which conveniently dissolves in iced tea more easily than granulated packets.

Quaint and removed from the hectic reminders of college life, Jarman's Gap is a highly recommended jaunt for those students looking to escape Charlottesville for an evening to enjoy varied gourmet fare while nestled in a quiet atmosphere in the Blue Ridge.

Comments

Latest Podcast

Today, we sit down with both the president and treasurer of the Virginia women's club basketball team to discuss everything from making free throws to recent increased viewership in women's basketball.