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Original ingredients top off the allure of Pizza Bella

Never judge a book by its cover, and never judge a restaurant by its facade.

Housed in the Mill Creek Shopping Center near Monticello, Pizza Bella appears from the outside as just another run-of-the-mill strip mall eatery.

But once inside, you discover a unique, cheerful spot to grab a gourmet pizza or pasta dish. The walls of the one-room open restaurant are covered in bright murals, everything smells good, and the wait staff is young and friendly.

Pizza Bella has quite a large menu for such a small place, and the kitchen offers something for everyone interested in Italian fare. The appetizers range from the traditional to the creative and all are served in good portions.

The bruschetta ($5.99) is one of the most popular appetizers, but it was a disappointing choice. Although the biggest fear in ordering bruschetta is that it will be soggy, this starter had the opposite problem. While all of the toppings were arranged nicely on the bread, there was no cohesive flavor and no oil to hold it all together in balance. The tomato paste topping was slightly bitter, but the basil kicked in some fresh flavor. The black Kalamata olives were tasty, but they must have been on sale at the Food Lion next door because they popped up in every dish we ordered.

Incapable of escaping the Italian influence, the nachos ($5.99) are made with Bolognese sauce rather than traditional salsa. Smothered with mozzarella, cheddar and Monterey jack and topped with sour cream, the nachos surprisingly are fulfilling. The Bolognese blends well with the other ingredients and provides a nice break from nacho status quo.

The appropriately titled pasta bella is the most popular pasta. Low in fat and cholesterol, this selection offers a healthy option for those watching the waistlines. Drenched in a wine sauce and tossed with several fresh steamed vegetables, the dish tastes very untraditional.

The pasta practically swims in the excess sauce, but extra bread is provided for dipping. The plate is very attractive, the sauce delicious, and you certainly will feel better about yourself for ordering this serving instead of the alfredo. Still, this pasta may not be indulgent enough for those expecting true Italian cuisine.

At Pizza Bella, the pasta is good, but the pizza is great. Many types of white or red thin-crust gourmet pizzas are offered, and you can either create your own from the creative list of toppings, or pick one of the pre-designed specialties. A small pizza goes for $11.99, a medium for $14.99, and a large for $16.99.

On the Greek pizza, artichoke hearts, olives, spinach and sun-dried tomatoes, topped with feta cheese, combine for a Mediterranean treat.

Those who shy away from any pizza with "Meat Lover's" in the title should try the flavorful Vegetarian pizza.Red onion, mushrooms, sun dried tomatoes, broccoli, artichoke hearts and spinach are all piled on, making the dish appear to be more of a salad with mozzarella sprinkled on than a pizza. And of course, the ubiquitous Kalamata olives play a big flavor role. With such fresh toppings, the pizzas really do look like colorful masterpieces when they come hot out of the kitchen.

The turtle cheesecake ($4.99) was good but predictable. The desserts are made by the Albemarle Baking Company, which supplies desserts for many restaurants in the area. Pizza Bella does not do much to add its own flair to the desserts, but its time is better spent focusing on the pizza. There are several types of cheesecakes offered on a rotating basis, and the turtle cheesecake has a solid graham crust with caramel and peanut topping.

Fluffy and delectable, the chocolate hazelnut mousse cake ($4.99) has layers of crusty chocolate and light, well-balanced mousse. For chocolate lovers, this dessert is a heavenly close to an evening.

Pizza Bella gets its seafood fresh every day from OXO, where half-owner and head chef Willie Manning did his culinary training. Manning was an undergraduate in government and foreign affairs at the University before heading to Virginia Tech and procuring a graduate degree in turf grass management. Willie and his mother, Christine Manning, started Pizza Bella two years ago as the call of the kitchen was louder than the call of the links. Willie says business is good and now he can't imagine leaving the restaurant business.

Pizza Bella also does a brisk take-out pizza business, and Fridays are its busiest nights. The pizza offerings are refreshingly original, and the difficult choice when ordering is no longer pepperoni or mushrooms. Pizza Bella takes it to a whole new level. Suddenly you're choosing between the spicy Cajun Chicken and the Hawaiian with pineapple, ham and pine nuts. Pizza Bella opens up a whole range of toppings and styles of pizza.

Too many University students leave Charlottesville without seeking out worthwhile experiences that are off Grounds but still in our own backyard. Pizza Bella is a very simple, but undoubtedly enjoyable find.

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