There is a city where rolling green hills stretch endlessly and small villages are in abundance. Red roofs and white walls of houses peek out from behind mountains and the smell of roasting meat is in the air. Aquamarine waves crash upon the shores, which are covered with stones that are thousands of years old. This is Thessaloniki, Greece’s second largest city.
During Spring Break, four of my fellow students and I spent a week there as part of a travel and learn course organized by the International Residence College.
Graduate Education student Noah Egge shared his love for Greek culture with us during weekly seminars at the University and led the one-week trip filled with hiking, cooking and learning about the country’s vibrant past and present. Egge arranged for our group to stay in the home of Christine and David Willis, a Greek and English-speaking family that he knew from his previous travels to Greece. The Willis family generously welcomed us into their home in the village of Lakkia — which is about 20 minutes from the heart of Thessaloniki — and they quickly taught us the ropes of living in the Greek countryside.
Every morning, we awoke to a picturesque scene of the sun rising over soft green mountains and flowing grassy fields. Outside our windows, cats, dogs and chickens roamed freely through the side yard, as the snow-capped peaks of Mount Olympus towered in the background.
After a daily breakfast of bread, feta cheese, jam, fresh honey and olives, we started our day by preparing the ingredients for dinner later. In one week, we learned how to prepare a host of different Greek dishes, ranging from Tyropita, a type of cheese pie, to the popular Tzatziki cucumber dip. Most of our ingredients came directly from the Willis family’s garden, located adjacent to a grove of olive trees near the house.
Living history
One of many factors that contributes to Greece’s rich history is how old everything is. I do not mean just a few hundred years, either — our first day in the city we walked along the Byzantine walls of Thessaloniki, most of which were constructed in the fourth century BC — meaning they are more than 2,300 years old! Their ancient bricks can be seen all around the city, surrounded by modern buildings or bordering people’s homes.
Today, a number of people live along the walls, most of whom are neighboring Balkan refugees seeking sanctuary in Thessaloniki. The mixture of religions and cultural traditions that they bring add to the city’s already rich tapestry.
Then, if the walls were not enough, we toured several of the city’s historic landmarks, including a site known as the Rotunda. This building bore a resemblance to the University’s Rotunda only in its shape. It was originally constructed in the fourth century to serve as the tomb for Emperor Galerius, but was instead used as a Christian church, then later as a mosque during Ottoman rule. Today, it is open to the public and used occasionally in local religious services. Its Byzantine tile designs and ancient architectural work are in excellent condition and continue to serve as a reminder of the city’s rich history.
No rush
A large part of our trip was to learn about the different lifestyles of people around the world and to examine what it means to “go slow” in everyday life. The phrase comes from the idea that it is possible to get more out of life by taking time to enjoy simple pleasures and to not give in to the demands of the fast-paced modern world. Before leaving for Greece, we were given excerpts from Carl Honoré’s “In Praise of Slowness,” which discussed the “Slow Movement” and its followers, who say they get more out of their lives by enjoying what they do while still keeping up with the pace of society.
Granted, the overall pace of society in Thessaloniki seemed to provide a break from the typical “rat race” mentality that is characteristic of the United States. Call it different cultural mentalities, but in general, Greek people seemed to be in less of a hurry. Furthermore, rather than stressing out about work, they spend time visiting friends or family. Most stores and museums closed at 3 p.m. — because it was winter — and meals were expected to take at least an hour, if not longer. This was apparent even in the city, where people of all ages would spend countless hours at local cafes and coffee houses, just sitting outside and enjoying a conversation or a smoke. The concept of “slow food,” or eating slowly enough to savor a healthy meal, was also quite prominent in the rural countryside, where it seemed that food was the main thing that would bring people together for hours at a time. Compared to America, pre-prepared meals are non-existent in Greece, and no one seems to own a microwave. As a result, visiting Greece turned out to be an ideal real-life example of the “slow” philosophy.
During the trip, we learned a great deal about Greek history and met people from all walks of life who lived and worked around Thessaloniki. We met with a local beekeeper, potter, high-ranking clergyman, Classics expert and university professor, music librarian and several resident musicians, as well as many other Greek citizens. These people all led very different lives, but each was passionate about his or her career. This type of positive approach and balanced lifestyle was interesting to observe and served to remind us of the benefits of taking life at a less hurried pace.
When we were not talking with locals or touring historic landmarks, we spent our time in the countryside hiking through the surrounding mountains and exploring ancient sites, like the Neolithic ruins in the hills of the village of Paliambela, the tomb of Philip II — ruler of Macedonia in fourth century BC — in Vergina and touring the caves of Petralona, where many fossils — both human and animal — date back as early as 800,000 BC and are still trapped in the cavern’s walls.
Greek Community
One of the things that amazed me most about Greece was how welcoming and hospitable its people are. Sure, I’d heard about Greek hospitality before, but it was not until I arrived in Thessaloniki that I understood what it truly meant. People went out of their way to be nice to us, whether it meant greeting us on the street with a simple “Yassas!” — which means “hello” — or putting up with our poor language skills as we attempted to order food or purchase goods in the market.
One night, we visited the home of a woman named Vasso, one of the Willis family’s friends. We walked into her house to find a huge home-cooked meal waiting for us, with the dining room table groaning under the weight of plates filled with spinach pies, fresh greens, plates of feta cheese, cooked calamari and homemade bread. Never have I eaten such delicious food in such welcoming company before! Even though none of the undergraduate students on the trip could speak Greek, we always attempted to say thanks. Eventually, though, we found that a simple smile often served as the best universal language for gratitude.
Another event that stands out most vividly in my memory is our trip to the church of St. Andre in the village of Peristera. Firstly, it seems that there are more Greek Orthodox churches — often remains of old Byzantine establishments — in Thessaloniki than there are Starbucks in New York City. One night we found ourselves in the little town of Perembelea and decided to visit one of the local churches. Upon opening the sanctuary doors, we found that there was an evening service in session, so we quickly turned to leave. Before we could get back out the door, however, one of the village women came up to us and ushered us inside the sanctuary, indicating that we should come in and join them. After casting a few dubious looks among the group, the six of us walked inside, Egge leading the way and serving as our main translator. We suddenly found ourselves in the heart of an eighth century stone Byzantine church, and ended up spending the next half hour or so talking with the priest. He was particularly interested in hearing about our studies and what brought us to Thessaloniki, and in return he told us about his village and the church’s history. We had a delightful conversation and even got a chance to speak with some of the other members of his family and congregation — some of whom spoke English — before we concluded our visit by taking a photo. I have been fortunate to attend religious services in many different countries, but I have never felt as welcome in any other place as I did that night in that tiny, ancient stone church.
A beautiful blend of the modern and ancient worlds, Thessaloniki was full of adventure and relaxation — the ultimate Greek life.
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