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Monsoon in the forecast, expect Thai-dle waves

Dining at Monsoon is not as dangerous as the name may suggest, but the restaurant certainly provides a bit of excitement and the menu unleashes a storm of spice. Tucked in a stone house just off the Downtown Mall on Market Street, the Thai restaurant presents its high-level Asian cuisine in a chic setting.

An overwhelming aroma greets diners who enter the former office space turned sleek dining area. Inside the restaurant, which has a partially exposed kitchen, funky, abstract wooden cutouts of various condiments line the walls. As the only sources of light in the dining area, eclectic lamps hovering over each table cast traces of blue, red and green beams.

The beautiful outdoor dining area, which closes during the winter, is set to reopen any day now, and the large oak inside the wrought-iron fence shades the patio. Dinner is served every night of the week from 5 to 10, and lunch is served on weekdays. The menu presents a limited number of rice and noodle dishes, which come with your choice of tofu, chicken, beef, pork, squid, scallops, jumbo tiger shrimp or a seafood combo. The prices vary depending on the meat selection.

In addition to the main selections, the selection of appetizers and soups includes some unique creations, as well as a few old favorites. Tomeis the Thai national chicken coconut soup ($3.95). Seasoned with galanga spices, bamboo shoots, onion slices, chopped tomatoes and blanched chicken line the bottom of the golden broth.

Much of the meat in Thai cuisine is boiled before being used in dishes, which alters the color and allows the meat to soak up spices more fully. Even the Wonton Soup ($2.95) manages to outclass most others found in Charlottesville. Large, homemade chicken wontons float in a delicate broth seasoned with ginger, spring onions, sesame oil and soy.

The Spring Rolls ($3.50) are served straight from the deep fryer and come out at a phenomenally high temperature and dripping with oil. The appetizer includes three rolls, each filled with ground meat and shredded cabbage mixed in seasonings and wrapped in a thin pastry. Two different sauces accompany them, although the flavors in the sauces are so subtle as to be imperceptible.

A modest and tasty house salad accompanies each entree. A slice of cucumber and bean sprouts grace a base of mixed greens, but the highlight is the lovely lemongrass-soy vinaigrette, which complements the salad without overpowering it.

Though views often differ on the subject, many connoisseurs of Thai cuisine argue that you cannot judge an eatery without referencing its Paht Thai. If you believe that the Paht is the standard bearer by which Thai restaurants should be measured - and we do - than you should be very optimistic about your experience at Monsoon. Classic Thai rice noodles are served with sweet and sour and spicy sauce with fresh vegetables and ground peanuts. A variety of spices combine perfectly with the wide noodles and sprouts, both of which were of high quality and exceedingly fresh, to create a piquant and satisfying selection.

With most of the entrees, including the Paht Thai ($10.95), you can choose between five different levels of spiciness. One is mild, three is hot, and those brave enough to try level five "might as well lick the sun," the menu boasts. Even those who enjoy a bold taste should find level three more than pleasing.

One malleable noodle spice base is the Thai Lemongrass and Basil (with shrimp, $13.95). Fresh vegetables, served with your choice of meat or tofu, are stir fried with lemongrass and fresh basil. Bamboo shoots and sliced mushrooms are also in the stir-fry, while the generous bowl of jasmine rice that comes with the dish soaks up the flavorful sauce.

Formerly located on the Downtown Mall itself, Monsoon takes full advantage of its new residence and remains very busy on the weekends. The food is delicious and the service is incredibly friendly. For those looking to share a nice romantic dinner or a classy evening away from Grounds, the fare at Monsoon represents something new and unique.

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