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En-Raptured cuisine flaunts an Asian and Orleans flair

Two people standing in different areas inside Rapture would never know they were inside the same establishment. This restaurant on the Downtown Mall cannot quite make up its mind on what sort of personality it should express. The separate components of this college dining experience need to be considered individually, but what makes Rapture impressive is the unique flair of their combination.

Rapture's sign on the street has a picture of an eagle with wings spread perched on a number 8 billiard ball. At first glance you would think you were walking into a biker bar, but its facade which opens onto the Mall reveals it to be a chic restaurant. Tables are set right in the windows, and outdoor dining under umbrellas is available in good weather. In the large, modern kitchen, Rapture's chefs prepare the dishes behind the bar in full view of the guests in the narrow front dining area.

Venturing more deeply into the restaurant, the decor has a quirky old-fashioned New Orleans feel, reminiscent of an abandoned "A Streetcar Named Desire" set. Ceiling fans hang low and spin lazily, and wrought iron balconies cover white shaded windows on the open space of the second floor. The spicy Crawfish Etoufee starter ($8) that is served with rich buffets this mood. This huge dish is similar to jambalaya and the Cajun spices provide quite a kick. The waitress insists that it must be paired with a cold beer, but for those under-age, ice-cold water would be a necessary substitute.

Rapture also has a wide selection of items marked "lighter" that make for good, small meals if you are eating late or warming up to a main dish. The Golden Fried Spring Rolls ($6) are filled with noodles and vegetables and are a delightful and flavorful appetizer. They are served with a poppy-seed peanut dipping sauce and drizzled with a bright red hot chili powder sauce. Even though they are fried, the spring rolls are surprisingly light and the shredded carrots and cabbage accentuate the different textures.

The Hand Cut French Fries ($3) are fried too, but they don't achieve the lightness of the spring rolls. It is refreshing to be served french fries that are not of the standard machine-cut frozen shoestring variety. The fries are not overly greasy, and they are cut in all different sizes. Cheese or Old Bay seasoning can be added to the fries for $1.

The main dishes are not as appealing as the appetizers, as Rapture's real strength lies in its starters. Like many of the appetizers, the Pan Seared Free-Range Chicken Breast ($14) arrives at the table in a generous serving. Stuffed with prosciutto, sharp fontina cheese, and fresh oregano, two chicken breasts and two wings are covered in a lemon and butter demi-glace sauce. This rich and tangy spread also covers the unusual onions and shiitake couscous, which accompanies the meat.

 
Rapture

103 E. Main St. | 293-9526


Food: ***
Atmosphere: **
Location: ***
Service: ***
Price: $$$$
(Out of 5 possible)

The Grilled Salmon ($14) was disappointing. The fancy title promised Sauteed Mushrooms in Grain Mustard Glaze served alongside, but the fish itself was quite flavorless except for a slight grilled flavor. The Rosti potatoes served under the fish were soaked in an odd mustard sauce, a strange flavor combination that did not work well. The potatoes were shredded and fried in the style of a potato latke.

Rapture also has a South Asian flair (we're not sure how this ties in with the Creole influence) and is famous for its large noodle bowls. The Peanut Bowl ($14) is served with sauteed vegetables in a peanut sauce over long papery Asian noodles. The Thai Bowl ($11) is meatless and includes vegetables, the ubiquitous shiitake mushrooms, and coconut-soy sauce over noodles. You can pick your poison and ask for a mild, medium, or spicy bowl but that doesn't seem to affect the end result of how spicy they actually are. Even to our sensitive palates, the mild tasted the same as the spicy.

Rapture only offers two desserts, both for $5. The Mango Cheesecake is served with the standard graham cracker crust and a large mint sprig on top. Mango syrup is drizzled over the slice, and is a pleasantly innovative flavor. Those who don't like mango should avoid the cheesecake and stick with the Chocolate Seduction Cake. Dense chocolate cake envelops the rich fudge layers and the outside of the cake is coated in chopped almonds. A heavy dessert but a good way to get a lot of chocolate into your system very quickly.

In the back of the restaurant, the walls are deep red and the mood becomes more Moulin Rouge than Bourbon Street. There is a bar in back and pool tables on the upstairs floor. The whole restaurant is shaped like an "L" and wraps around an art store on the corner. One half of Rapture opens onto a small back alley, which complements the milieu perfectly. The rumor is that Rapture got its name when it opened four years ago, because it was originally supposed to be a wraps joint, or perhaps because it wraps around the corner. With exposed ceilings, eclectic decor and an incongruous rap soundtrack, Rapture is a funky culinary hodgepodge and worth a stop for a drink, a game of pool, or some Cajun/Asian cuisine.

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