There's something about good food that makes us giddy. When we eat we smile sheepishly, laugh at not-so-funny things, reminisce over other delightful eating experiences and draw comparisons of the food with sex. OXO made us giddy too.
On the Water Street side of the Downtown Mall sits one of Charlottesville's finest restaurants, inauspiciously named OXO. Across from rival restaurant Metropolitan, OXO occupies a large upscale warehouse-style building. The high ceiling exposes an industrial duct running the length of it. The front of the restaurant is separated into a dining area and brightly colored bar with an open kitchen that provides a view of the chef preparing the meal.
At the back of the restaurant is another dining room, slightly more removed from the bustle of the street and bar. Cozy cushions and pillows soften the seats along the walls while the sounds of Ella Fitzgerald and Chet Baker soften the atmosphere.
Upon arriving, the maitre d' greeted us, took our jackets and led us to our seats in the back dining room. We were provided with food menus, a liquor and beer menu, and a bound wine list sprawling 25 pages.
A two-course meal, dessert, tax and tip at OXO easily can be $50 per person, even without a bottle of wine. But with Valentine's Day creeping up and Final Exercises weekend on the horizon, it would be wise to make reservations at this fine dining establishment soon for either event.
OXO's menu is separated into a two-course dinner followed by dessert. Although it is possible to order just one course, the food is just too good to short yourself.
The meal starts with a tiny plate of fried beef strips atop a pear and shitake mushroom salad. Just enough to whet the appetite and tease the imagination, this precursor, accompanied by a tiny three-pronged fork, leaves the customer hungry for more.
The first course consisted of classic beginners such as lobster bisque ($6) or oysters ($11). Mouth-watering combinations such as a baby green salad with a wild mushroom spring roll, black olives, tomatoes, French beans and anchovies ($7), or the venison terrine with apple chutney, toasted brioche and red wine syrup ($10) also are available.
Of course, more highbrow options exist like seared foie gras with crispy sweetbreads, or a timbale of smoked salmon, beluga lentils and flying-fish caviar.
The main course offers four large oysters, coated in spinach, bacon and cheese served with a rosemary beurre blanc, along with half-dozen spoon-sized lobster fritters soaked in a bowl of lobster bisque. With its very modest lobster flavor, the dish can be hailed as a delicious first course.
A palette-cleansing pear sorbet precedes the heavier second course, the heart of which is either seafood or meat, with the one exception being a grilled portobello mushroom dish.
The pan-seared snapper wrapped in a potato crepe was prepared excellently, as the fish was slightly meaty but very tender. The dish comes with roasted onions, bacon, sauteed spinach, fennel salad, lemon mosto oil and 100-year-old balsamic syrup ($24). The fennel salad topped the wrapped snapper, and the fish absorbed the lemon mosto oil and the balsamic syrup.
Creamed cabbage, a tart of lobster and leek, and wild mushroom jus accompanied the seared scallops ($26). Glazed carrots, crushed potatoes, sauce bearnaise and cabernet jus enhance the Angus beef tenderloin ($28).
The roasted leg of venison, garnished with dried cranberry jus, was fantastic. Boulangere potatoes and turnip puree accompanied the meat. The turnips were especially light and the dried cranberry jus was subtle but distinct. The chef recommends preparing the venison medium-rare, which leaves the meat quite red throughout.
The dessert menu listed several tempting items including a flaming Baked Alaska with hazelnut ice cream and a ginger souffle with lemon ice cream and creme Anglaise. Citrus creme brulee with raspberry coulis and casis sorbet also tops the list. An excellent caramelized pear tart with chestnut creme patissiere comes with vanilla ice cream and calvados syrup. Each dessert is priced at $7.50.
The wait staff at OXO is extremely professional yet entirely unassuming. They take care to cover the open side of your water glass with a cloth as they pour water, they suggest options to eat, define unusual ingredients and will gladly take pictures of your dining party. Obviously, they have been trained well.
OXO simply is one of the best restaurants in Charlottesville. The food is superb, prepared well and presented nicely, and the service is attentive and helpful. It provides a reason to have a Valentine, or, for that matter, to graduate. When you go, we think you'll get giddy too.
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